Kerala God’s Own Country : Published in CFO connect, April 2009.

Travellers to this haven will find it pristine and pure.

The silhouette of palm trees cools the shimmering sand, which is lapped up now and again by embracing waves. The trees beseech you to nestle in their arms, calling out to the tired mind. This is Kerala – a haven to stop at, and sigh, and see heaven on earth!The magic of ‘god’s own country’ is a reminder that behind the curtains of heat and dust of industrial and urban life, lie environs that hum with the lilting strains of being one with nature. A visit to Kerala is about taking in the wonder of its natural beauty, its antiquity and rich history. Resplendent monuments stand as framed portraits of life in yesteryears.

A reminder that behind the curtains of heat and dust, lie environs that hum with the lilting strains of being one with nature

Memoirs from the past

As one of the oldest civilisations in the world, India’s story is written in its ancient scriptures and texts. A reading of these texts tells us where Kerala began its journey. The earliest written evidence of Kerala can be found in the Sanskrit text Aitareya Aranyaka. It is also mentioned in the accounts of foreigners such as Megasthenese, the Greek ambassador to the court of Emperor Chandra Gupta Maurya, who authored the book Indica.

Kerala has witnessed changes in the regimes of rajas and lords who came to rule and added their unique colour to the region. Malayalam is the main language and is believed to have originated from Tamil, the main language of neighboring state Tamil Nadu. With the passage of time (during 8th to 14th century), a unique and distinct Malayali identity evolved, which is different from that of a Tamilian.

The 15th and 16th centuries were the eras of geographical discoveries which prompted the movement of people between continents and countries. Vasco da Gama, a Portugese trader, who came to Kerala in 1498, was the first European to discover the sea route to India, and promoted trade in spices. He built the first Portuguese fort at Kochi in 1503. Foreigners have come to Kerala in succession, with one defeating the other (the Dutch dominated the Portuguese, who in turn were vanquished by the British), and left their impression on this land.

The abode of the gods
Kerala is the land where beauty lives in its enchanting backwaters, refreshing beaches, soothing hill stations, mesmerising greenery, and soaring monuments – making it truly God’s abode on earth. Every destination in Kerala, from Kochi to Poovar, is unique and enthralling – pristine and pure in their natural untouched avatar.

Vibrant Kochi
The monuments at Kochi take us on another journey through the annals of the past. The St Francis Church at Fort Kochi is the oldest church built by the Europeans. Vasco da Gama’s body was buried here, and was later moved to Lisbon after 14 years.

Another example of architectural individuality is the synagogue. Built in 1568, it inspires awe and its magnificence is accentuated by Chinese tiles and Belgian chandeliers.

The Dutch Palace at Mattancherry is an imposing structure, where coronation ceremonies of many raj as of Kochi, have been performed. The palace was originally built by the Portuguese and later modified by the Dutch in the 17th century. Its exclusive mural paintings exquisitely depict scenes from the Hindu epics Mahabharata and Ramayana.

The Parikshit Thampuran Museum is the building where rajas would hold their durbars. It was later converted to a museum, and today houses treasures from ancient times.

The beach at Fort Kochi bustles with activity as visitors throng the stalls selling mouth-watering traditional cuisines. One can see fisherman struggling with their huge Chinese nets, as they go about scouting for fish.

In greener pastures
The Cherai Beach (on the outskirts of Kochi) is located on the northern end of Vypeen islands. Cherai offers the inimitable mélange of sea beach on one side and the backwaters on the other, tranquilly hidden from the hustle and bustle of Kochi. The backwaters are where the resorts are, designed in traditional Kerala style of architecture. Visitors can de-stress here with the best Ayurvedic massages.

The call of the forests and strong aroma of tea leaves cajole you to head to one of the most picturesque hill stations, Munnar, which is a four-hour drive from Kochi. The journey there reminds you of all your childhood fantasies; the fairy sitting on a cloud, dancing daisies, Alice in Wonderland, and much more. As you ascend higher and higher up the narrow twisting and unwinding road, you see rivulets gushing down the mountain side singing subtly to the tune of the cool air. Hiding and peeping from the sides of the road are the cardamom and fruit trees that accompany you all the way to Munnar.

Munnar, a tiny hill station hidden by forests and covered by tea gardens, is a travellers’ delight. One should not miss the thrilling motor rides on the Mattupetty river which the local, ingenuous inhabitants coax you into joining. On the ‘joy ride’, the motor boat takes you at full speed in to the lap of the river, and while nature is busy mesmerising you, the boat plays a prank and ensures that you turn a right angle, so you literally “feel water trickling over you”. The Mattupetty Dam is also a well known destination for visitors. Small shops at the market near the dam sell wood artifacts and curios that are unique and priced at a discount.

The call of the forests and strong aroma of tea leaves cajole you to head to one of the most picturesque hill stations, Munnar

The Mattupetty river is surrounded by forests on one side and tea gardens on the other. Amid the tall grasses and trees, you can catch glimpses of wild elephants with tusks strolling along in the lush green forests. There are various facets of Munnar which one should not miss: The tea gardens, the wildlife sanctuary, the tea market, and a solitary walk. The tea gardens stretch throughout the mountains, alluring visitors with their greenery and aroma. The world’s best varieties of tea, and especially green tea, are available at Munnar’s markets.

The next destination one should head straight to from Munnar is Alleppey, “the house of the house boats”. Known for its lagoons and backwaters, Alleppey’s houseboats welcome you aboard. And before you know it, you are chanting your childhood song, “Row row row your boat…”

The boat blissfully takes you to the deep backwaters surrounded by coconut and palm trees on lonely, but lovely islands. As you reach the interiors of the backwaters, a convoy of small boats arrive offering pearls, fish, flowers, and other memento, surely in exchange for money!

It is a three-hour drive from Allepey to Thiruvananthapuram (erstwhile Trivandrum), by car. Towards the outskirts of Thiruvananthapuram, you can take a detour to Varkala beach.

Thiruvanathapuram (the abode of God Anantha’) is the capital city of Kerala. While here, the places to visit are Kovalam – one of the finest beaches in India, Vizhinjam, an ancient airport, Veli Lagoon, the boat club, and Thenmala, the first eco-tourism project near Thiruvanathapuram. Concealed amid the backwaters and seashores, on the southern tip of Thruvanan thapuram is Po-ovar Island. This is an estuary island with a thin peace of land segregating the Arabian Sea from the backwaters.

Cuisines of Kerala
Kerala offers an array of dishes to suit both vegetarians and non-vegetarians. A typical Kerala feast referred to as Sadya, is served on a clean banana leaf. The main items on the menu include sambhar, rasam, kichadi, toren, (vegetable), papad and payasam.

Two dishes which are unique and on popular demand are puttu and appam. Puttu is rice powder and grated coconut steam cooked together. Appam is a kind of pancake, which is circular in shape. It is made of rice and fermented with a small amount of toddy.

When served with Toren or chicken curry, they are simply delicious.

What to shop in Kerala: On the list of must buys are select spices, ivory items, gold, and coir products.

A familiarity with its language Malayalam, certainly helps in communicating with the local inhabitants. Some common expressions which you could use while communicating with them are: nandi (thank you), ade (yes), alya (no), sugmado (How are you?), va (come), evada (here), veluum (water), peru inda? (What’s your name?), and vital po (come home).

Kerala epitomises the perfect camaraderie between land, sea, and the backwaters which gives a feeling of ethereal bliss. A car drive through the sprawling palms and a boat ride through the backwaters should not be I missed for anything in the world.

ORISSA– the Land of Gods and Goddesses. (Published in CFO connect, Dec 2009)

After hours orissa dec09

ORISSA– the Land of Gods and Goddesses

Orissa is the land of architectural distinction, and sculptural magnificence; it is where dream and reality fuse. Situated on the eastern border of peninsula India, it is gently washed by the gurgling waves of the Bay of Bengal. In ancient times, it was renowned for its sea ports facing the Bay, looking out at the distant islands of Bali, Java, and Indonesia.Back then, the region was known as Kalinga, in central-eastern India, comprising most of the modern state of Orissa (also referred to as Utkal in ancient texts), and some northern areas of its bordering state, Andhra Pradesh. Extending from the river Damodar / Ganga, to Godavarai, and from the Bay of Bengal to the Amarkantak range in the west, this land was very fertile. One of the ancient lores surrounding Kalinga, is the story of King Ashoka, who was aghast by all the bloodshed his invasion of Kalinga (in 261 BC) had caused, and he embraced Buddhism.Orissa is also home to a modern marvel, Hirakud Dam, which is one of the longest dams in the world.
Bhubaneswar – The Temple CityThe capital city Bhubaneswar boasts of the famous Lingaraja temple of Lord Shiva, the Mukteshwar temple, the twin cave groups of Khandagiri and Udaygiri, and Dhaulagiri.The Lingaraja temple is described as ‘the truest fusion of dream and reality’. Inscriptions from the period of Kalinga King Anangabhima III, can be found here. The temple is made of the darkest shade of red sandstone. It is 55 m high and elaborately carved.The Bindu Sarovar, which lies near the Lingaraj temple, proudly claims to own a drop (Bindu) of every holy river in it.The Mukteshwar temple dates back to the 10th century and is considered the gem of Oriya architecture.The Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves lie around 8 km from Bhubaneswar, and are carved chambers of the ancient Jain monasteries. The caves date back to the second century BC.At Dhaulagiri, the gruesome Kalinga War was fought, which proved to be the turning point for King Ashoka. The Dhauli Stupa, on top of Dhauli hill (on the banks of the river Daya) is a dazzling, white peace pagoda built by two Japanese Buddhist institutions in the 1970s. Dhauli’s importance as a Buddhist centre under King Ashoka can be seen in the many chaityas (Buddhist prayer halls), stupas, and pillars.Several edicts around Dhauli, spread the message of Buddhism.

Chilka Lake
Travellers seeking to visit Bhubaneswar must visit the Islands of Chilka Lake, and the temple towns of Konark and Puri. Chilka Lake is Asia’s largest salt water lagoon and is the breeding ground for various migratory birds including flamingoes. The lake is pear shaped and its brackish waters support a range of aquatic flora and fauna.

The remarkable islands surrounding the Chilka Lake require a dedi-cated one-day trip, but for this it is important to start early and reach the port by 7 am. Motorboats can be hired here to visit the many islands: The Nalabama Island and bird sanctuary at the centre of the lake; Bird Island; the abode of goddess Kali, Kalijai Island and; Satapada, where the endangered dolphins can be seen.

Lord Jagannath Temple at Puri
It takes approximately one-and-a-half hours to drive from Bhubaneswar to Puri, a pilgrim town, where the celebrated temple of Lord Jagannath (Lord of the Universe) is situated. The temple is one of the four dhams (abodes of god in the four compass directions – Puri in the East, Ramesh-waram in the South, Dwarka in the West, and Badrinath in the North) which all good Hindus are meant to visit in their lifetime. The Jagannath Temple was built in the 12th century – it was begun by King Anant Varman Choraganga Dev, and completed by his grandson Ananga Bhima Dev of the Ganga Dynasty.

A famous maxim is that the patron cannot visit Puri, until the Lord him-self calls. But, the lord was kind to us, and we reached Puri at 9 pm, and witnessed the evening aarti, without having to muscle through the masses to catch a glimpse of the deity.

The temple is the starting point for the famous rath yatra, which takes place in July. All three deities (Jagannath – the other name for Krishna – his brother Balabhadra, and their sister Subhadra) are carried in their separate, heavily decorated chariots by a few thousand people to the Gundicha temple, which is two kilometers away. The Gundicha temple is their summer abode for a week, after which the grand procession winds its way back to Jagannath.

The beach at Puri is called the golden beach; its shimmering sands at sunrise or sunset, are bedazzling!

A marine drive to Konark One can reach Konark via the Puri-Konark Marine Drive, which is smooth and enriching, adjoined by deserted beaches and many rivers flowing into the sea. But before Konark, famous Pipli is a must-stop spot, to see its beautifully designed appliqué handicraft

Konark is renowned for ‘The Chariot of the Sun God driven by seven horses’ – the Sun Temple built in the 13th century by Narsimha Dev of the Ganga dynasty. A World Heritage Site, the temple is made from black granite, and is also called “The Black Pagoda”.

Konark derives its name from Konarka, the presiding deity of the Sun temple. Konarka itself is a combination of two words, kona, which means corner, and arka which means sun. The seven galloping horses represent the seven days of the week and the seven sages who govern the constellation, and pull the chariot carrying the sun across the sky. The three images of the Sun god are positioned such as to catch the sun’s rays at dawn, noon, and dusk. The two lions that guard the entrance are artistically sculpted.

The beach is now at a distance of a kilometer from the Sun temple, though it was built on the shore ages ago. This indicates that the sea has receded from its original shoreline. Konark was the bustling port of Kalinga, and had maritime trade relations with South East Asian countries.

A taste of Oriya culture
The Odissi dance is the prominent dance form in Orissa. This graceful and energetic classical dance used to be performed by devdasis, behind the closed doors of the temple to appease Lord Jagannath. The devdasis were chosen to serve the Lord with their dance and devotion.

Sweet cuisine: A journey to this state is not complete without enjoying its irresistible cuisine. The well known rice pudding or kheeri (kheer), originated in Puri, 2,000 years ago. Chena poda, another sweet dish is cooked by caramelising cottage cheese with sugar, and spiced with cardamom and other ingredients. It is cooked over a clay hearth. The delectable chena jheeli and malpua are the state’s other famous deserts. The kakera peetha (made of finely grained wheat and coconut, and sauteed with pepper, cardamom, sugar, and ghee) is a chief delicacy which is prepared during the festival season.

OdeThakur: In fact, many of the celebrated Bengali cuisines have originated in Orissa. During the Bengal renaissance, brahmin cooks from Orissa, especially from Puri, were routinely employed in rich Bengali households. Their expertise was their culinary skill and they were commonly referred to as Ode Thakur (Oriya brahmin-cooks).

Spicy foods: Oriya food caters to both vegetarian and non-vegetarian tastes. Fish forms an integral part of the food regime. At a fair that we were fortunate to attend in Bhubaneswar, we got a taste of their spicy life. Amid the sprawling sweet stalls, we could see ornately decorated chaat stalls that were flaunting red chillies. And when we decided to taste one of the more sought after chaat preparations, we realised that the word spicy is an understatement for Oriyas.

The people: The people of Bhubaneswar seem to have retained their simple and uncomplicated life, unaffected by the complexity of metros. Still, the state reflects a unique mélange of culture of the east, with West Bengal as its neighbour on one side, and that of the south, influenced by the adjacent state of Andhra Pradesh. Despite the various influences, the inimitable spirit of the people is apparent in Pipli’s unique and beautiful applique artwork; ornate silver filigree work from Cuttack; the patta chitras (palm leaf paintings); famous stone utensils of Nilgiris (Balasore); and other tribal-influenced paintings.

Summing up
Orissa is testimony to India’s rich architectural heritage, passed on to us over thousands of years. By kings who conquered and ruled, made history and ensured that they contributed something so unique, that future generations will always be proud of.

Shillong , the Scotland of the East, (Published in CFO connect , April 2010)

Shillong Scotland of the East

Shillong is the land of dark clouds, rumbling rain, a propelling breeze, and swaying pine trees. It is the capital city of the North-Eastern state of Meghalaya, which means ‘the abode of clouds,’ as derived from the Sanskrit words Megh (cloud) and Alaya (home). Shillong itself gets its name from Leishyllong, the god believed to be residing on the Shillong peak over-looking the city, as its protector.Shillong is also known as the ‘Scotland of the East’ because of its striking similarity with the Scottish Highlands.
This was my first trip to a region in the North-East. We planned our trip to Shillong in March, and then wondered how different it will be in comparison to the hill stations near Delhi, which we have often visited. Arriving in Guwahati by flight from Delhi, we took a pre-paid taxi from the airport to our destination. It takes around three hours to reach Shillong. At the start of our journey, the weather was quite warm. The road was elevated and there were rice farms on both sides. The taxi gradually ascended up the slim road which was delightfully festooned at regular intervals with small wooden shops selling bananas, betel leaves, bamboo pickle (which is a delicacy), other fruits and some snacks. The features of the natives are distinctly unique, identifying them with the state of Meghalaya; and yet they blend just as easily with other Indians.

The cool weather was a signal to us that we had covered several miles and were at a much higher altitude; and even then it was bright and sunny. As we glided higher, banana and pine trees began to gradually replace the rice farms. The leaves of the pine were merrily swaying in the cool breeze and I thought it was odd that instead of tapering downwards towards gravity, the leaves were pointed upwards taking the shape of an inverted cone. When I enquired of the taxi driver whether this was a different species of the pine tree, he just smiled and said that once we reach Shillong we will find out for ourselves the reason. Unsure whether the driver himself knew the answer or was just deliberately trying to duck our question, we continued our journey in silence for a while.The expanse of greenery enveloping us diverted our attention to the world outside. About 45 minutes away from Shillong, we forced the taxi driver to stop at a mesmerising green lake called Bara Pani. Its scenic grandeur tempted us to jump out and click some photographs, but we were stopped by army men patrolling the area. This is a restricted area and therefore we could enjoy its natural beauty, but not capture it on camera.

In no time at all dark clouds had descended on the hotel and it seemed to be right outside our window. The temperature dipped and there was the loud sound of thunder and lightning followed by a deafening downpour

At Shillong
On reaching Shillong we checked in to a hotel at Polo (one of its markets). The city was dazzling in the sunlight and we felt quite warm. When we regretted aloud that we had brought a bag full of woollens with us for the trip, the man at the reception smiled and said that no one could predict the weather in Shillong.My decision to rest first and explore the city later was seconded by everyone. As it was quite warm, we discarded our woollens and ordered for cold drinks. Within 15 minutes the whole scene had changed. Dark clouds had suddenly descended on the hotel and it seemed to be right outside our window. The temperature dipped and there was the loud sound of thunder and lightning, followed by a deafening downpour. We were so completely taken aback by the force with which Shillong showed us that it is after all the capital city of Meghalaya. In no time we were shivering, and we hurriedly put on our woollens, and swapped our cold drinks for hot cups of tea. It was just 4 pm, and the power had gone off because of the heavy rainfall, drowning the hotel in mysterious darkness. We lit a candle and walked down towards the dining hall, where the other visitors had also come to view the rain by candlelight. We spent the rest of our evening listening to the thunder and rain.

At dawn
That day we went to bed early and as soon as my head hit the pillow I drifted off to sleep. The next thing I knew I had woken up and there was a strange diffused glow of light that was coming in from the window. I checked the time, it was 4 am, and dawn was breaking. I sat and watched the orange blue orb of the sun mount the sky, and the view was completely breathtaking.Post-breakfast, we decided to explore the city first, and its outskirts the day after.

Wandering about the city
We walked up to Ward’s Lake in the heart of the city which has a small garden and facility for boating. There is a botanical garden located near this park. A puny bridge in the centre of the garden over the lake adds to the charisma of the place. A local taxi took us to the golf course, the largest golf course in Asia, which is also known as ‘The Glen Eagle of the East’. Our next destination was the Lady Hydari Park. This is a small park that has swings and see-saws for the kids to play on and colourful flowering plants. It also has a mini zoo nearby which attracts children. It began to drizzle while we were walking around the Hydari Park, and we pulled out our umbrellas. But when we walked a little distance, a sudden gush of wind pushed at it so hard that the umbrella turned upwards forming an inverted cone. It then hit me why the leaves of the pine tree grow upwards here, because the breeze is so strong that it keeps pushing at them. After repeated attempts to straighten our umbrella, we finally gave up and put it away.

Shillong is the home of the Khasi tribe. The British influence is seen in the look and design of the houses, which no matter how small have a well maintained balcony with colourful flower pots and creepers blooming, and there is a fairytale feel about the whole place.Right at the top
By the afternoon the taxi took us to the Shillong peak which is at an altitude of 1965 m above sea level. It is the highest point in the state and at a distance of about 10 km from the city. As we surmounted the peak, visions of paradise on earth and angels amid the clouds suddenly came to me.

Exploring the market
The main market of Shillong is the Police Bazaar. One can buy traditional bamboo handicraft, woollen handmade shawls, traditional Naga clothes, and wooden craft work. The market place also has a restaurant which specialises in South Indian and North Indian food. Bamboo shoots and bamboo shoot pickle are very popular and a must buy for all tourists. Kwai which is fermented beetle nut taken with a beetle leaf and a dash of lime and occasionally ginger is a favourite of the natives.
About 60 km from Shillong is Cherrapunji, which is historically known as the land of the heaviest rainfall. It is a small place pulsating with an old world charm, and a popular destination for tourists. The view from the taxi is so enchanting, as we drive up the twisting and curving circled roads, bordered by the vast expanse of lawns which look like like green fields. The sight is so overwhelming far from the maddening crowds. Cherrapunji offers entertainment in every season; The monsoon calls to view the flooded plains of Bangladesh; the months between November to February, when there is no rain, one can go camping and on long treks, do rock climbing and explore the ancient caves and megaliths. One inimitable feature of this place is the living root bridges. The strong roots of the rubber tree form natural bridges over swift flowing rivers and rivulets that one can cross over.By the time evening fell we had returned to our hotel in Shillong, excited by the adventures of the day, which would continue the next day as we were going to visit the Smit Village where the traditional palace of the Khasi Queen and King is. The famous festival of Pomblang lewduh is held here in October and the Nongkrem dance in November, in front of the King’s palace. The dance is performed to appease the all-powerful Goddess Ka Blei Synshar for a rich bumper harvest and to bring prosperity to the people. There are several dance groups that perform. It is said that the princess begins the dance which starts at around 11 am. The first half is performed by the girls and the second half by the boys, and the entire performance ends by 4 pm.

The visit to Smit Village was as spectacular and colourful as the rest of the adjoining areas. We wanted to stay and enjoy more but our journey to Shillong ended in no time.

When I began reading this epic, it completely changed my vision of fantasy writing. I got absolutely glued on with the characters and the plot. So strong was my attachment to the clashes of ice and fire that I went online and rapidly submitted books reviews of each of the series.

Now after almost four years of initiating reading ‘The song of ice and fire’, I will not touch the Dance with Dragons. The author, Mr. George R.R Martin refuses to finish the series and the memory of each character is fading from my mind.

It is so very exasperating practice of book authors. Why can they not finish the series in five to six years? You get the audience for your book and leave them hanging on to the suspense. I wish Mr. Martin focuses on finishing the book rather than rewriting the scripts of the existing novels for films and movies.

Just to give you an idea of this long saga. This series, ‘The song of ice and fire’, is supposed to have 7 sequels. The first book of the sequel- A Game of thrones was published in 1996. The fifth, Dance of Dragons has been published in 2011. 5 books have come out in fifteen years and there are two more remaining. Should we take another 6 years? What does this exactly means, for twenty one years we are supposed to remember the characters and the story line. Oops, this is too much to ask for.

Writing sequels is a trend with the authors. Amish Tripathi, the Indian best selling author, came out with his first book- The immortals of Meluha in February 2010. It is the first book in the Shiva Trilogy. The second book in the series, The Secret of the Nagas, was released on 12 August 2011. The third installment, titled The Oath of the Vayuputras, was released on 27 February 2013. The author has been keeping the readers glued on to the series. I am sure a percentage of Amish’s success is attributed to keeping the flow of releases of Immortals of Meluha frequent.

As an ardent fan of Mr. George R. R. Martin, I can only advise him to finish his sequels fast and don’t keep the readers hanging for years.